Georgia has lively rivers, high mountain valleys and a remarkable number of waterfalls. We explore new ice whenever conditions allow and collect what we learn here.
This guide focuses on details that matter at the start of a climbing day: how the line forms, where the sun reaches it, how long the approach takes and how we descended.
The interactive map below brings together all recorded locations—from major waterfalls to short ice steps and mixed routes—with photographs and links to trip reports.
One broad pitch offers several lines at different grades. The easiest option follows the cauliflower ice on the right and is around WI3+. An easier line may also form on the left, although a large bergschrund below it can make access impossible. The central lines are steeper.
The waterfall needs a sustained cold period to form well. From the top, the reward is an exceptional view of Kazbek.
A friendly single-pitch waterfall and a good early-season objective. The easiest climbing is on the right; the line becomes progressively harder toward the left. The right-hand option is no harder than WI3+.
Build the anchor on ice and descend from an Abalakov thread. A tree on the left, a short distance from the top, offers another descent option.
This beautiful waterfall lies near the village of Tsdo and is visible from the Terek viewpoint. The lower section is the crux at around WI4; the upper section eases to WI3. We climbed it in three pitches of roughly 20, 20 and 30 metres, although two pitches are possible.
An additional upper section continues beyond the narrow ice bridge. We stopped there because the ice was too thin for screws.
Access
Drive toward the Russian border. After Tsdo, look for the Larsi tunnel sign and turn sharply right just before the tunnel. Continue through the wooden gate on the rough road; this section requires a 4×4. Walk from wherever snow conditions stop the car.
Three one-pitch waterfalls form in the canyon below the Gudauri Monument of Peace. The middle pillar is the easiest at approximately WI4 and often develops cauliflower ice. The left and right pillars are around WI5.
Ghuda Valley holds the cold well, so the pillars can form early once night temperatures in Gudauri remain below freezing. Later in the season the upper ice receives strong sun, especially in March.
Biisi is one of the best-known ice-climbing locations in Georgia and one of the few waterfalls regularly visited by local climbers.
It is a single steep waterfall, approximately 50 metres high. The easiest line is on the left, although it is still around WI5. The waterfall remains in the shade throughout the day and can form even when the weather is not particularly cold.
Although the waterfall is shaded, it starts running when daytime temperatures rise. Check the forecast for Gori: even if the ice has formed well, a warm afternoon can quickly make the conditions unpleasant.
Approach
Drive through the village of Biisi. The final village road can be rough; a 4×4 may allow you to continue approximately 300 metres farther. From the parking place, follow the signs towards the waterfall and walk upstream for about 20 minutes.
Gveleti is one of the best-known ice-climbing locations near Kazbegi and one of the few waterfalls regularly used by local climbers for top-roping. Come early: on weekends it can become crowded after 11:00, especially when several top ropes are installed.
The main climbable part is approximately 55 metres high and graded WI4. There are several possible lines across the left and central sections. The right side is steeper and technically harder, but it also carries the main water flow and is usually either wet or not properly formed. In practice, it is rarely climbable.
Although the waterfall remains in the shade throughout the day, the Gveleti gorge is surprisingly warm. It normally needs a sustained cold spell to form well. As a practical guideline, look for roughly two weeks with night temperatures around −10°C and daytime temperatures staying below zero in Stepantsminda.
Approach
From Stepantsminda, drive approximately 9 kilometres north towards the Russian border. Turn left towards Gveleti village and cross the bridge. From there, follow the gorge directly towards the waterfall. The walk takes approximately 20–30 minutes, depending on snow conditions.
